The other day, I happened upon a truly wonderful story of a group of people who decided to go on an adventure. As this story was in Mundo Celular Magazine March edition, which is entirely Spanish in text, I felt that English readers were at a great loss. Due to the beautiful prose and colorful detail, I took it upon myself to translate the entire text and present it for you here. With great respect to the author of the story, Alfredo Martinez Fernandez, I have changed nothing of the storyline or descriptions. I hope that you may enjoy this traveller's tale as much as I did. Here's what I read:

Following the routes of the great explorers - Hernan Cortés, Sebastian Vizcaino and Francisco de Ulloa; they navigated during ten days by kayak, exploring the fascinating islands of the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortés). They travelled through reserves and natural, virgin sanctuaries, where time appeared trapped within the magical ancient rhythms of nature.

The Sea of Cortés is without question one of the premier locations in the world for sea kayaking, right up there with Hawaii, Alaska, Thailand, the Mediterranean Sea and the Caribbean Sea.

The Gulf of California combines all of the key ingredients required for great adventures. There are remote islands waiting to be discovered, wild and dramatic cliffs, as well as heavenly virgin beaches bathed in blue waters inhabited by a fascinating and savage world. We found playful sea lions, dolphins and majestic whales.

The present physical characteristics of the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortés) are dated at 4 and a half million years old. Since its origins, the peninsula has moved 650 kilometers northwest and it has been calculated that it moves one inch per year. One day, it is expected to separate completely, thus becoming an island - as it was originally suspected to be during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Sea of Cortés measures 1,400 kilometers in length. It is 210 kilometers in width at its widest point and 90 kilometers wide at its narrowest point. There are approximately 100 islands within the Gulf of California, each with its own differentiating characteristics. All of these islands provide natural refuges for many species of animals and flowers which continue to live within an ancient natural cycle, somehow supporting the beating it receives from the hand of man.

We took to these voyages with Eskimo kayaks, made of a light wood and lined with sealskin, with which the tribes of the Arctic foraged for their sustenance - hunting in the icy waters, weaving through icebergs. During our expedition, we discovered the fascinating islands south of the peninsula, navigating our kayaks during these ten days. We travelled from La Paz all the way to Loreto.

The Adventure Begins in La Paz
Our emotional journey began in the tranquil city of La Paz, founded by Hernan Cortés on May 3rd, 1535 with the name Santa Cruz. Years later, in October of 1596, the great seafarer Sebastian Vizcaino disembarked in the Bay of Santa Cruz. Upon arrival, he stated that, "I entered this cove, which I have named La Paz because within this inlet the Indians gave us whatever they had - fish, fruits of the earth, rabbits, hares and deer."

Ourselves, seduced by the adventure, dropped anchors and started out aboard the Pez Sapo (literally "toad fish"). The Pez Sapo is one of the exploration ships of Baja Expeditions, used to see whale sharks.

We followed the coast all along the great Bay of La Paz. We passed Gaviota Island, a natural refuge for hundreds of birds. As well, we saw the port of Pichilingue, where the ferry used to arrive from Mazatlan. Further along, we discovered the magical beaches of Tesoro, Balandra Bay and Tecolote. Tecolote is situated in front of the San Lorenzo canal, which for six kilometers separates the territory of the peninsula from Espiritu Santo Island.

Espiritu Santo Island
While navigating the blue waters, we enjoyed the spectacular landscape and were greeted by the beautiful rock shelving along the face of the island. We appreciated the volcanic stratification, boasting tones of brown, ochre, red, pink, white and black. The colors transported us over millions of years through geological eras.

In front of Espiritu Santo island, there are numerous smaller islands like Gallo Island, La Gallina and Ballena, all of which are ideal for snorkelling. After several hours of wandering about, we arrived at Candelero beach, without doubt one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. Here we set up our first camp. During the afternoon, we followed the island's coast in our kayaks, peering into its secrets. Enormous crags and cliffs dominated our view, and natural arches bordered the white sand beaches.

Espiritu Santo Island is separated from Partida Island by a narrow and shallow canal, via which during low tide commuting is possible. The two islands are inhabited by shrubs, thickets, mesquite, torote, cacti, and white and colored sticks which are home to 18 species of reptiles and two species of amphibians. Among the mammals found there are bats, mice, rats and cacomixtles. In the Bay of San Gabriel and on Candelero, there are small growing mangrove swamps, home to several types of crab.

After an exhausting paddle, we returned with the sunset to Candelero beach to partake in a delicious fish and seafood dinner. The next day, we climbed aboard the Pez Sapo and made our way to the rocky islands where we geared up with our snorkelling equipment. Wearing our masks, snorkels and fins, we jumped into the water to explore the fascinating underwater world. The rocky islands host hundreds of marine birds, including frigates, boobies, cormorants, seagulls, and pelicans. A large colony of playful sea lions was quite intrigued by our presence underwater, examining us closely by swimming around us and blowing bubbles, granting us an incredible exhibition of aquatic dance.

The rest of this underwater habitat is composed of colorful tropical fish: angelfish, parrotfish, surgeonfish, "Moorish Idols", scorpionfish, butterflyfish, trumpetfish, and sea urchins. The underwater walls are covered in amazing growths and various species of starfish whose red, orange, yellow and green hues are nothing short of intense. The sandy floor is inhabited by rays and guitar sharks. On a lucky day, it is possible to appreciate the diverse fauna including giant manta rays, hammerhead sharks and the grand whale sharks (the largest fish in the world).

Continuing aboard the Pez Sapo, our journey headed northeast until we reached the island of San José.

San José Island
We hopped into the kayaks once again, and began to row "del Pardito" until we reached the mangrove swamps of San José Island, which are the largest of the gulf islands. A difficult paddle allowed us to enter into the estuaries of the beautiful San José lagoon and further into the labyrinth of canals. Here we discovered red mangroves, white ones and even black ones. We saw red crabs crawling along the roots of the mangroves while the white ibises and the white and blue long-haired herons posed for us, perched up high above.

During the hours of dusk, the deserts come to life. Animals come out from their refuges to eat. As we left the mangrove swamps, escorted by a dramatic sunset, we witnessed the spectacle given by a group of pelicans all flying abreast of one another. As they would one by one identify and claim their prizes down below in the water, they would drop down and scoop up the large fish, capturing dinner for themselves. Our day concluded in Amortajada Bay, where we set up camp on the southwest portion of the island.

San José Island measures 28 kilometers long and 7.5 kilometers wide, covering a superficial area of 194 square kilometers, with its highest peaks at 633 meters above sea level. This island is also one of the loveliest in that it houses a plethora of ecosystems and spectacular scenery, and for this reason we stayed for two days exploring its most remote corners.

The following day, we started to paddle at dawn, visiting the small fishing village of Palma Sola and arriving at Los Angelitos beach, where we set up camp once again and organized our hiking equipment.

Following our guide, we began our trek on Placeritos beach. We found much relating to the past, including a large quantity of fossils and whale bones, sharks' teeth, turtle skeletons and thousands of shells. Our hike took us along dried up streams, displaying fantastic formations created through erosion by wind and water. We were slowed down along a turn within a gunbarrel formation, so narrow as to only permit one person to pass through at a time.

In the early hours, before sunrise, we began our next day in our kayaks. Our objective was to adventure through one of the most beautiful and incredible landscapes in the world: the island of San José at dawn.

After one half hour of rowing, the first rays of light began to creep up onto the immense walls of Los Angelitos. These walls climb above 100 meters in height and bear within them the perfect markings of geological stratification. Upon them, the dawn ignited a rainbow of pinks, oranges, yellows and ochers. Over the course of the day, we rowed and rowed, covering the coastline, contemplating the intimidating cliffsides. We snorkelled our way to Punta Calabozo to explore the wonderful underwater caves.

Our next working day was quite lengthy aboard the Pez Sapo. We continued our path along the line of the islands, passing Las Animas, San Diego, Santa Cruz, and until we reached the island of Santa Catalina (also known within the region as Catalan). At this point we were blessed with yet another magnificent dusk, the entire sky was painted in a fire of red, yellow and orange. It would be appropriate at this time to mention that these sunsets are a unique sight, exclusive to the Sea of Cortés, also called Mar Bermejo.

Santa Catalina Island
Santa Catalina is the island of the giant cacti, situated 23 kilometers from the peninsula. Here we allotted two days for exploration, camping along the Achon stream. We woke early the next morning, and paddled our way all around the island, admiring both the cliffs and the strange formations in the rocks. Many of them resembled fantastic animals, and one is called ' the Elephant of Anzueleadero'. After several hours of rowing, we arrived at Punta Arenas, home to a fascinating natural cactus garden of saguaros, and giant biznagas that are endemic to the island and the largest of their kind in the world, measuring 4 to 5 meters in height and one meter in diameter. Each cactus of this species is at least 100 years old, and the entire island is covered with them.

Santa Marta
Leaving the islands behind us, aboard the Pez Sapo, we returned to the territory of the peninsula and visited Santa Marta. Here we camped on a beach which was nothing less than paradise.

In the past, this place was one of much movement, being one of the centers for the collection of mother-of-pearl. Today, however, there is only one family of ranchers there, amidst an oasis of date palms. The family dedicates its time to the manufacturing of delicious goat milk cheese, the cultivation of the date palms and fishing.

We kayaked along the coastline, stopping sporadically to explore various caves, and surfing the waves that were crashing against the rock face of the landscape. The following day, we navigated the coast of the peninsula in the Pez Sapo, escorted by a pod of dolphins surfing the wake of our boat. We made sure to take in the splendid vistas of Agua Verde and the islands of Monserrat and del Carmen. We came to a stop at our final destination: Loreto.

Loreto
Loreto is the capital of Baja California. The first mission was founded here by the Jesuit Juan Maria Salvatierra on October 10th, 1697. Salvatierra embarked in the port of Yaqui - today called Guaymas - in the Galleon Santa Elvira, accompanied by nine men and the Virgin of Loreto (Loreto means "place of laurels" or "forest of laurels"). The Virgin had been brought by Salvatierra in order to dedicate a temple to her. After 17 long years of pilgrimage, this Virgin arrived at her final destination in the scorched earth of Baja California. Finally, on the 18th and 19th of October, Salvatierra and his crew reached the Bay of San Dionisio Concho - today called Loreto - where they were received by the Indians who assisted them in building a provisional chapel with naves. Days later, in a solemn procession, they disembarked from the galleon with the effigy of the Virgin of Loreto and placed her within a provisional sanctuary. There, Salvatierra said mass, officially declaring the foundation of the new population of Loreto-Concho.

Today, the Virgin has a large mission, and the life of a gentle and calm town surviving on tourism and fishing revolves around her. It is also both the starting and end point of many great adventures. On one side, it is bathed by the Sea of Cortés, and on the other it is flanked by the majestic Sierra de La Giganta, but this is another story entirely.